There’s no doubt. Fleas can be the bane of a dog’s (and dog owner’s) existence. The little critters are pretty amazing. They’ve got six tiny legs and no wings, yet they can leap tall dogs in a single bound. Scientists have identified nearly 2,000 species of fleas, but ironically, it’s Ctenocephalides felis — the cat flea — that gives dogs the most grief.
Dogs with fleas can be a real problem. Fleas are blood suckers, and where there’s one, you can be certain there are a whole lot more. Besides the usual minor itching and scratching a flea infestation causes, some dogs are extra-sensitive to flea saliva. Just one bite may be enough to bring on the unbearable itching of flea-allergy dermatitis (FAD). In severe cases, the cycle of itching and scratching causes the dog’s skin to thicken and her hair to fall out. The raw skin is also more vulnerable to bacterial infections.
Fortunately, there are a variety of well-tested and readily available products to kill or repel fleas. Borates (used in those powdered flea-control products you sprinkle on your carpets) cause adult fleas, eggs, and larvae to lose moisture and dry up. Insect growth regulators stop immature fleas from becoming adults and reproducing. New weapons in the war on fleas include lufenuron, the active ingredient in the recently developed flea-control pill that interferes with the flea egg’s ability to hatch. Several products, including Frontline, K9 Advantix, Advantage, and Revolution, kill adult fleas on contact and have long-lasting effects. Contact your veterinarian for more information on these flea products.
Whatever flea-control products you choose, always read and follow directions precisely. Never assume if a little is good, a lot will be better. Every flea product (natural or other) is a poison of some kind, and, if used incorrectly, can be dangerous.
What to Do About It
Even with all the new safer and longer-lasting flea-control products available, you still need to follow some basic rules to the letter in order to get the upper hand with fleas.
Build a flea trap. While building flea traps won’t rid your house of fleas, it’s a good way to verify that you’ve got them in your house and determine how severe an infestation you’re dealing with. Hang a light source over a sticky, disposable surface (flypaper works well for this) or a bowl of soapy water. The heat from the light source attracts any nearby fleas, many of which will then get caught on the sticky surface or in the water. You’ll notice the fleas as small, dark, flat-bodied insects, roughly the size of the commas in this sentence.
Give fleas an eviction notice. You absolutely must treat all dogs and cats, as well as the premises — all at the same time — and be diligent about follow-up treatment and future preventative treatment. Treat carpets with a borate-based powder. Spray the yard, too. Ideally, you should use an outdoor flea-control product that is long-lasting, kills adult fleas, and contains insect growth regulators to catch immature fleas before they can grow up and repopulate your property. Moist, shady areas are favorite flea playgrounds and breeding grounds, so clear out falled leaves, pine needles, wood, and garbage from under trees, shrubs, and plants. If spraying the whole grounds isn’t feasible, try to at least concentrate on areas your dog frequents: around the doghouse, along the fence line, under the porch, and so on.
Professional pest-control companies can handle flea control for you. But before you sign the contract, get written information on the compounds and method of application the company uses. Run the list by your veterinarian.
Take your dog for a dip. Actually, the best thing to do with a dog who has fleas while the premises are being “de-fleaed” is to take her to the veterinarian for a medicated dip or other flea treatment. In fact, that’s also a good idea for an effective flea-control program. Your vet may choose to give your dog lufenuron for flea control, which is given as a monthly pill. In warm areas like southern California, dogs on lufenuron get their pills year-round. In temperate areas of the country, where winter gets cold enough to kill off fleas, the pills are only given during flea season — from early spring to sometime in the fall. Talk to your vet about the options, though. It may be that one of the topical treatments works best for you and your dog. Topicals hit fleas right where they live — on the outside of your dog — and start working immediately.
If your dog loves to swim or play in the water, or gets bathed frequently, a topical can get washed off, though. Newer topical products like Frontline have very long residual effects, only needing to be applied every two or three months, and they don’t wash off. Fleas can develop resistance to a particular product in a surprisingly short time, so your veterinarian may recommend a program of alternating products and treatment strategies.
Treat hot spots. Dogs with flea-allergy dermatitis often develop hot spots — moist, infected areas of the skin. To soothe hot spots, mix one part melaleuca oil (tea tree oil) and one part water. Put the solution in a spray bottle, and use it whenever your dog is biting or scratching. You can also apply a natural menthol liniment such as Absorbine Jr. a few times a day until the area dries up.
When to Call the Vet
Heavy drooling and a case of the shakes are the most likely early signs of chemical poisoning. If you see these symptoms in your dog — whether during the course of a flea-control program or not — get her to the vet immediately. Left untreated, chemical poisoning may quickly progress to convulsions, collapse, coma, and even death.
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Author:
Consultant Dr. William Fortney. “Home Remedies for Dogs”. July 05, 2006 http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-remedies-for-dogs-ga.htm (November 14, 2007)
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